East London Food & Culture

Deeney’s: in which we swap a toastie for a veganuary salad

You don't have to devour lashings of melted cheese every time you visit E10's uber-popular cafe. Do you?

Age: This is one of the longest established of Leyton’s recent wave of coffee and dining spots, having come to Leyton High Road back in 2015 (read our very first story on its arrival here). Fact: the same year as Leytonstoner was born.

Where exactly is it? Opposite what is surely East London’s smallest and most annoying Tesco Metro. And easily identifiable as the café at the centre of Camille Walala’s already iconic mural, unveiled back in 2020’s deepest lockdown, when it brought a much-needed rush of colour to the high street (see pic below).

Deeneys
Deeneys: chic. Photo: SE

OK. So what goes on there? Most famously, toasties. Uber-famously, the Macbeth – the one with the haggis as well as cheese and caramelized onions, in honour of owner Carol’s Scottish heritage (by the way, their famous Burns Night celebrations are coming up, details on Insta). There are also toasties oozing with cheesy leeks, packed with sriracha mayo roast chicken and, naturally, a couple of meat-free and vegan options.

What should I eat? Well, having enjoyed many a calorie-stuffed number over the years – not to mention their wonderful evening foodie pop-ups, which ran pre-Covid – we decided this week to go cold turkey on the addictive melts in favour of a healthy January salad.

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The verdict? Tasty (phew): a generous mound of roasted cauliflower, quinoa, red pepper, spinach, a few fiery rocket leaves and a mint and coriander dressing, all bejewelled with pomegranate seeds and pickled red onion rings. You can also add chicken or halloumi for a thwack of protein.

The interior? Deceptively big. A lower ground floor space seats the day’s laptop-wielders and the local mums; while upstairs are tables-for-two and a counter for solo sippers. Hanging houseplants add vibes and colour, while shelves are crammed with natural wines, coffee and local craft beer. An open kitchen is always abuzz with orders.

Deeneys
That mural

And what do I drink? Coffee is Allpress, a long black strong and smooth. Or feel free to ditch the Dry Jan in favour of a thoroughly wet Thursday lunch, if you wish, as there are beers, wine and cocktails too.

What’s the service like? It’s always polite and efficient. Although it was oddly deserted at 1130am when we arrived, by 1pm they were turning people away, an orderly queue snaking out the door. Still got it after all these years, Deeney’s.

Do say: ‘Bring back the fabulous evening residencies!’

Deeney’s is open every day till 4pm; the roasted cauliflower salad is on the main menu at £7.50, £8.25 eat-in. More details on their website. Follow @deeneys

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