You’ve probably heard of Jones & Sons even if you’ve never been. Andy Jones is the founder of the restaurant in Dalston that infamously became the location for Stephen Graham’s nail-biting Boiling Point, which should only be watched without a third-degree hangover.
Jones has now launched second Jones & Sons, under the same brand, in South Woodford, E18. Why? Because he lives there. Fair enough.
It’s a vast space set in a historic building – previously Elmo’s pizzeria – perched right on the edge of the motorway. I’ll admit it wasn’t a part of South Woodford I’d visited previously, but the space is impressive: dimly lit and sexy inside, there are several dining rooms, an open downstairs kitchen and appealing dog-friendly bar area, plaster-wash walls, stone tables and marble bar tops. This was where my partner and I sat.
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Kieran Hope, head chef at Jones & Sons Dalston, has overseen the launch menu (think seasonal modern British). The most price-effective way to eat here is to book the two-course set at £26.50, decent value for mains like onglet or sea trout.
As I was being kindly hosted by the restaurant, we went a la carte (mains are £17-32). A starter of salmon gravlax with compressed cucumber and lemon had a palate-cleansing freshness, with unlikely (but tasty) notes of salty lemon cheesecake. However, the jury was out on the shell-on prawns deep-fried: he loved the crunch, I ended up picking the shells out of my teeth.
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Mains hinted at the expertise I’d expect here: thick slabs of venison (below) sat blushing in a silken jus, poured theatrically on by the server, alongside a hunk of beetroot and golden fondant potato. Notes of juniper berries made the dish feel comfortingly autumnal.
Arguably better still was a pillowy charred rib-eye with chimichurri, the best I’ve tasted since tucking into txuleta in San Sebastian earlier this year. The fries, however, were a little clustered together from a parmesan topping, while green beans, though al dente, lolled in a lot of butter.
Dessert, of poached plums, granola and coconut cream, was a pleasing collision of seasons, a dish as suited for breakfast as dinner. And service throughout was relaxed and friendly. So, for a swankier local(ish) date night – heck, it’s just two stops east, remember – this one is worth a spin. Find out more on their website. Follow @jones.and.sons
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Leytonstoner ate as guests of Jones & Sons.
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