As a freelancer often strapped for cash, I’m always curious about the biryanis advertised in the windows of establishments at what seems like crazily reduced prices of either £2.99 or £3.99. A closer investigation seemed long overdue: the first one to grab my eyes this week was newish Leytonstone High Road opening Saffron Spice (previously Butt Kebabish), with some seductively cheap takeaway offers for those on a budget.
On the apocalyptic Tuesday evening just gone, I ventured out, armed with flailing brolly, to brave the horizontal rain and order its chicken biryani at just £3.99 (takeaway only).
Back in the warm, broken brolly discarded, emptying out the polystyrene box (aren’t these banned?) onto a plate, instant disappointment ensued: while the rice was indeed flavoursome, studded with caramelised onion, herbs and gentle spices, the chicken – though tender – was far from plentiful, to put it diplomatically. Unfortunately, the server had poured out the last of the tray before it went off to the kitchen to be replenished. My bad: I should have waited for a fresh batch. Even the roti – 75p extra – was perfunctory, at best.
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The following day, on the advice of reader Darren a few weeks back, I crossed Abbotts Park to try the takeout biryani at longstanding Leyton High Road joint Mobeen (the subject of many an online rave). First thoughts were that the interior is great: I loved the retro backlit menu displayed above the counter, which clearly listed starters, curries, rice and bread, while piles of golden samosas lay attractively on hot plates.
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Although Darren suggested the lamb, I opted for the chicken for an easier comparison with Saffron Spice – incredible value at £2.99 cash only (otherwise it’s £7). Scurrying off to a bench by the tennis courts – the sun even peeping out from behind the clouds – I was pleasantly surprised. There were distinct notes of coriander and bay – with a residual leaf or two to prove it – while a full, fleshy leg of chicken was melt-in-the-mouth tender, its skin packed with flavour, the potato butter-soft, the dish lifted by a pot of mint raita. This is the one I’d return for.
Speaking of biryani, Leytonstone Life Facebook page followers chimed in with their favourite this week: while Shish Mahal, Leytonstone Spice, Mobeen and Masala India all won votes (as did many restaurants in East Ham), the clear local winner was Baba’s Village (my review here).
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