Loop, Leyton – review. Plus Partisan at Arch Deli, and Halloween

Loop, Francis Road: Diarmuid Goodwin review

It’s tricky reviewing a pop-up at tucked-away Loop, the elegant candlelit upstairs dining room, off Francis Road. Partly because you have to be super-quick to catch it.

And this weekend is no different. Acclaimed Belfast-born chef Diarmuid Goodwin has worked his way through London’s most esteemed dining rooms, doing seven years under the legendary Angela Hartnett, as well as Highbury institution Trullo, and most recently head chef at (now sadly closed) Bethnal Green’s Sager & Wilde.

I was invited down to the launch last night and, from the succinct list of small plates, essential must-tries are raw bluefin tuna with green tomato aguachile (like a ceviche marinade, pictured above) laced with lardo, and glazed beetroot with hazelnut creme, citrus and radicchio.

Of the mains, a skewer of tender grilled chicken and scallop came with a crunchy winter slaw and rich, chilli-fuelled salsa macha – but the meal highlight was a golden-crusted skate wing with creamy grilled leek colcannon (a nice nod to Goodwin’s Northern Irish roots) in a delicious pool of umami-packed smoked eel and peppercorn sauce. The restaurant was deservedly packed out – this is surely one to catch before it ends tomorrow night. @loop.dining

Partisan London at Arch Deli

Half a mile away, there’s something about Arch Deli’s communal table that makes it Leytonstone’s cosiest railway arch spot when the weather turns. Better still, the chances are you’ll actually chat to another local before you leave.

Their consistently high quality roster of pop-ups continues with Partisan London (a one-off this Sunday, 12-6pm), which also happens to coincide with owner Michaela’s birthday. With Clerkenwell restaurant Brutto’s sous chef Alan Williams at the helm (much-missed restaurateur Russell Norman’s last opening), Partisan will serve small plates including salt baked beets and gooey Perl Wen cheese, radishes and seaweed butter, squash with garlic and sage, and crab on toast with charred baby gem. Sounds perfectly autumnal. And heck, Honey & Co, both venues are within walking distance of at least two stations. You’ll be there before you know it. @archdeli_e11

Donate just £2 to Leytonstoner

Halloween highlights

And now, Halloween. But you don’t need me to tell you that. I’ve always been a little agnostic about this particular annual shebang, but if you’re in full-on spooky mode, local highlights include the Northcote’s party tomorrow (Oct 26th) from 730pm, along with Leyton Midland cocktail bar Leyton Calling’s night of “tropical terror”, same day, same time. Nearby, Bamboo Mat is serving their Halloween menu until October 31st, with highlights include Pumpkin Tempura, Pumpkin Maki and Beef Heart Skewers.

Donate just £2 to Leytonstoner

On the actual day, head over to the Heathcote mid-afternoon for a kids’ bash, or Upper Leytonstone’s Out Of the Woods, open till 9pm for mulled cider and kids’ treats, while the following day (Friday Nov 1st) there’s a night of cocktails and tunes from 8pm till late. Over at the Leyton Star there are Halloween DJs that night too, although I thought the whole point of Halloween is that it’s the evening before All Hallow’s day and so by November 1st it’s surely over, right? Tell that to O’Neill’s, whose Halloween Dance Night is on Nov 2nd.

For the full version of this story and loads more like it, delivered every week to your inbox, please subscribe to the newsletter here.