La Bella Vita, Leytonstone – the area’s ‘best-value £15 set menu’?

An unheralded local on Leytonstone High Road, La Bella Vita has been trading now a decade – no mean feat in the current climate – and an example, I think, of a good restaurant hiding in plain sight.

Although I’ve lived in the area for years, I confess I hadn’t returned since a first and only visit with my then Leytonstoner co-writer Miranda Eason way back in 2015.

At the time our verdict was that the menu was a “little over-extensive”, the calamari starter “unmemorable”, the pizza good, and while “it was quiet early on a Tuesday evening, it filled up with mostly canoodling couples.” In a fascinating sign of the times, the bill – which we declared “very reasonable” – of one starter, two mains, a bottle of wine and coffee came in at just £35.10. Different times, eh?

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Anyway: a return was long overdue. Readers may remember I included Bella Vita’s good-value set menus in my recent round-up of bargain spots on Leytonstone High Road: two courses at lunchtimes for £14.95 (12-5pm), and £20.95 in the evening, including a glass of house wine.

On a sunny Friday lunchtime last week, I perched at the window counter, overlooking the small pavement terrace, and wondered why it had been nearly a decade since I last ate here. Inside, you can see the Eat My PizzaEverything you need to know about Eat My Pizza – and 5 must-try dishes effect: gone are the functional wooden chairs and in are velvet accent, creating a touch of contemporary comfort.

The list of starters feels lengthy, ranging from crispy crab claws to chargrilled halloumi, zucchini fritters to bruschetta Toscana. But my beetroot tartar, pictured above, was a hit: dramatically presented, the oven-roasted beetroot was swirled with natural yoghurt tahini and olive oil, topped with caramelized walnuts. Although it wasn’t served with pitta bread, as advertised, the accompanying basket of warm sourdough-style baguette was swiftly emptied.

Eschewing both pizza and classic pasta dishes (although I may return for the ragu), I settled upon the corn-fed chicken skewer: while not “cubes” as stated on the menu, what I received was far more satisfying – four grilled tender boneless thighs, tastily marinated, skin scorched, sitting on a rich and unctuous spicy tomato sauce, paired with perfectly cooked fluffy rice. Even the crunchy radish and red onion winter salad was a thoughtful touch.

My verdict? This lunch menu is surely one of the area’s best-value – and filling – feeds for fifteen quid. Two factors impressed beyond the food: tap water arrived iced, and there was no service charge at the end. It would be even more appealing if the staff were more welcoming, especially on a quiet afternoon. But nonetheless I will be back.

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