You wouldn’t necessarily expect the chef at a petite new cafe in Leytonstone to have such a history. But Daddie – yes, it’s just the one name (“like a papa,” he explained) – spent 18 years heading up the kitchen at the renowned Luc’s Brasserie in Leadenhall Market. Such are the surprises of our ever evolving food and drink scene.
No.23 is the kind of tucked-away spot that, if discovered on holiday, you’d return to each morning. When I popped by on a quiet lunchtime this week, the sun had just broken through dreary Tupperware skies, transforming Kirkdale Road’s wide tree-lined pavement. And despite the bus station opposite, the outlook is more appealing than you might expect. (Need further proof? See neighbouring Mediterranean institution The Olive and its suntrap terrace.)
Its interior really is very small – just six people inside, with four more alfresco – but that’s no bad thing, enabling a relaxed, intimate space to chat with the friendly team. A pink neon slogan ‘Treat Yourself’ rests above its spearmint panelled counter, while a handful of cookbooks and houseplants dot the shelves, the tiny tables repurposed NYC fire hydrants. The calm vibes are underpinned by a soundtrack of chilled house pumping gently away.
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Much of the food offer is healthy fare, the counter filled with colourful dishes, from roasted vegetables and herby couscous to carrot salad and beetroot with rocket. But there are also mini quiches, brioche filled with omelette and spinach, and baguette slices smeared with ratatouille. Plump croissants and pastries are baked in the small kitchen daily, with more intricate patisserie delivered by an artisan supplier.
I was needing lunch, so ordered a slice of frittata with a combination of two salads (£9.95). The thick golden-crusted wedge was served warm, allowing its subtle flavours to come through, generously packed with spinach, sweet onion, courgette, red pepper and soft potato. It worked well with a jumble of al dente broccoli, crumbling feta, sweet potato, yellow peppers, red onion and pomegranate. All seasoned perfectly.
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Over a long black – the beans are from award-winning Hornchurch-based roastery Alt – owner Lotfi went on to explain that he grew up in Algiers before moving to Paris as a teenager, and then London at the age of 20. Now a Leytonstone local, he quit a long career in fashion working for brands like Patek Phillippe, Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci to fulfil his dream of opening a cafe.
And yet it was grief that also informed his decision. The shop’s previous incarnation, Dog’s Dinner, closed last summer after owner Aysen sadly passed away. “It was here for 22 years,” he said. “And when it shut, Aysen’s sister Emel – my partner – and her other sister Perin were thinking about what to do with the unit, and we decided as a family to do something that was of use to the community.”
Excitingly, their ambition soars beyond serving high-quality coffee and healthy lunches. Barista Andrea – a collage artist in her own right – is overlooking the events side of things. “We want No. 23 to be a space where people gather, connect, and make things happen,” she said. So, if you’ve got an idea for a book club, poetry night, creative workshop or tasting event, she’d love to hear from you. Other possible get-togethers include zine-making, collage, art swaps, writing workshops, knitting and craft socials, wellness and mindfulness sessions, freelancer coffee mornings, parenting circles and refugee storytelling nights. Phew.
Lotfi is especially proud of the window which opens wide to allow the inside and outside spaces to merge. “We want No.23 to be a little bit discreet, like a replica of Paris or Marseille,” he said, as I headed back out into the spring sunshine. Discreet perhaps – but nonetheless a welcome dose of escapism. @No.23Leytonstone
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