East London Food & Culture

The area’s best new pizza? An intimate tour of William The Fourth, Leyton

Exale Brewing have added top quality craft beer, Short Road Pizza and given the pub a gentle reboot

Two factors strike you on the threshold of Leyton High Road’s revived William The Fourth: firstly, the distinctive exterior signage, by Irish artist Loughlin Brady Smith. Secondly, the interior: it now appears so much bigger.

“Previously the bar was a double horseshoe,” explains new co-owner Steph Solley. “It was gorgeous, but took over the entire pub. So, we’ve straightened it out, and while the bar top is new — it had been badly damaged, with multiple layers of wood and Formica — everything else, including the gantry, is original.”

Passionate about the building’s rich history, Steph’s aim goes further than honouring its legacy. “This isn’t just about reopening a pub,” she says, “it’s breathing new life into a cherished part of our community.”

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When the news broke, just five weeks ago, that the scruffily beloved 1897 landmark had changed hands, it was a relief that East London brewery Exale — owned by Steph and her partner Andy — were taking it over, their third venture after their Blackhorse Road taproom and Bethnal Green’s Three Colts.

It’s a good fit for this Victorian gin palace, whose more recent history features a lesser-known microbrewery. Rewind to 2000 and it was run by Brodie’s, who brewed on site out the back, their craft ales notoriously strong. “They used to hold an annual festival that served 22% beers,” says Steph, with a laugh.

William The Fourth Leyton
William The Fourth: back room and Short Road Pizza. Photo: SE

Brewing stopped in 2016 and the Willy reopened in 2018 under Rose Pubs, owners of Chequers in Walthamstow and Homerton’s Adam & Eve. And as for its latest owners? They’ve lived near Hollow Pond for 11 years, and are both die-hard hospitality experts, having worked in boozers in London and “all around the world,” Steph says.

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Traditional pub fans can rest assured that, despite its spacious feel, the main room is no edgy reinvention. The key colour palette throughout burgundy and racing green, the central Victorian mantelpiece, with its tiled fireplace, has been scrubbed and piled up with old books and nick-nacks “from the Brodie days,” she says. Comfy Chesterfield armchairs hold court either side, while rugs line the floor, and mismatched chairs surround a mix of low and high tables. “We’ve kept the original wooden boards, but they were damaged, so we’ve sanded and re-stained them,” she adds.

The walls are adorned with eclectic oil paintings and sketches “sourced from local flea markets,” a bull’s head offering a further nod to the pub’s antiquity. As for the Blackletter — or Gothic — style of lettering used for the pub’s signage?

“It was inspired by traditional medieval handwriting styles often seen on pubs,” says sign-writer Loughlin Brady Smith, busy adding the finishing touches outside. “Its calligraphic nature, with distinctive angular strokes, evokes a sense of heritage and history — but I softened the edges to give it a warmer feel.” Don’t miss the swaying caricature pub sign depicting a “mascot character” of William The Fourth (who, history fans, reigned from 1830-37).

William The Fourth Leyton
Garden, William The Fourth Leyton. Photo: SE

Back inside, another difference is that the pub’s sports element is now focused in the atrium ceilinged rear room, still home to the open kitchen. Huge flatscreens aside, fans will enjoy the framed vintage football shirts, while the darts board stands in pride of place. Joining this room are shiny spruced-up toilets.

Outside, the courtyard is plant-lined, with pavement benches for those that prefer the bustle of Leyton High Road. At the rear, the former microbrewery is a stylish events space, its walls lined with vinyl and a turntable for DJ nights, pop-ups, and community gatherings.

William The Fourth Leyton
Short Road pizza at William The Fourth Leyton. Photo: Stephen Emms

As for food? With the pub’s open kitchen run by Leytonstone’s very own Short Road Pizza, a highlight is the Marinara, pictured above, a zingy chimichurri swirled onto its rich tomato sauce base, along with what chef Ugo calls “house” garlic puree. On Substack he talks me through his story – and why making pizza is such a personal cause for him.

As a craft brewery-owned pub, the focus is inevitably on high quality Exale beer, and prices remain competitive, from £5.80 a pint, with most averaging around £6.20-6.50. Their own beers on tap initially include the easygoing 4% Lagerama, the Skoosh Session IPA, a juicy Oona NEIPA and a dry-hopped Counter Kolscher, which I can recommend, a little fruitier than a pilsner.

Wine? That’s especially good value: despite their “championing of small, independent winemakers,” as the menu attests, a 175 ml starts at a very reasonable £5.30 a glass (a 250ml is only £7.50). And cocktails are priced from £9 for classics like negronis and espresso martinis, with two for £14 all day Friday. Two other offers are Tenner Mondays (pint + a pizza for £10) and Thirsty Thursdays (25% off bottles of wine).

Finally, if you live in E17, E10 or E11, you can even bag 10% off drinks: “just come to the bar, scan the QR and fill out the quick form online,” says Steph. It’s also available to hospitality, key workers and students. See you on the High Road. @williamthefourthleyton

This is a much shorter version of the full story first published last month on Substack. To read it and loads more like it, delivered every week to your inbox, and long before the stories appear online here, please subscribe to the newsletter. Only one in ten stories is now published on this site and every story we publish goes on the newsletter first here.

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