Local social media accounts have been aflame all week with the news that the former health food shop, a second’s walk from Leytonstone tube station, has finally reopened under the stewardship of the Hackney-based bakery, pastificio and deli. For the uninitiated, Forno is also an offshoot of the long-running canalside Ombra which, established in 2011, is one of East London’s iconic neighbourhood trattorias.
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Upstairs is a more mellow space overlooking Church Lane, with a large wooden sharing table and further seating, its floorboards signature orange. Just by the stairs is a small deli section, with pasta, risotto rice and Scenery coffee beans, while tempting sourdough loaves are displayed in the window.

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On my 1030am visit, the counter has already been emptied of pastries, with a sole lemon curd bun, a cornetto and just two sandwiches remaining. “It’s been a busy morning,” says the friendly server, adding that they’ve been slammed since 8am.
Taking a seat with a long black, and the flawless lemon curd bun, I wonder: did the whole of Leytonstone set their alarms this morning? And yet still a stream of people arrive. Expect long weekend queues hereon. Coffee is from £3. 47 Church Lane E11. @forno.cl.london