What is it? This upmarket Greek restaurant (named after the goddess herself) opened a year ago, the rather swanky sibling to Leyton’s Figo and Leytonstone’s Eat My Pizza, all three owned by East London-based restaurant group Romet.
Where? It’s tucked away in deepest Stratford Cross: you might even struggle with GPS. Basically, it’s near the new Everyman Cinema, just off the piazza leading to Sadler’s Wells East. While the exterior resembles office block more than restaurant, once inside, the illuminated bar feels refreshingly glam, while the extensive dining room, with its tasteful colour palette of aubergine, copper and gold, seats a whopping 200. Blink and you could be in a vast eatery on Granary Square.
The vibe? With glass everywhere, the place exudes natural light if you visit daytime, as we did. My friend and I had a late lunch booking on a Friday and a handful of tables were occupied, mostly twosomes skiving off the last hours of the week. A long table was being laid for a raucous party that crashed in halfway through our meal.
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And so to business. You’ll know Greece is, like France, enjoying the spotlight in London’s everchanging culinary scene. And the new autumn menu from Hellenic head chef Mario Selimis (previously at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Mandarin Oriental Hotel) is chocka with ambitious dishes.
What do you recommend to start? The bread course (£6.90) is terrifyingly moreish, so go easy: both the toasted sourdough, drizzled with olive oil, and blistered slices of pita are made to be dunked in creamy hummus and garlicky tzatziki (£7.50 each). Just as good? Three saline slivers of anchovies fragrant in lemon thyme oil (£9.50).
Next? The fish here is a particular highlight, especially wisps of ruby yellow fin tuna (£16) in a puddle of mandarin ponzu, and an outstanding butter-soft grilled octopus leg (£19.90, above) on a whorl of fava bean puree the colour of sunshine. Pictured above is the herb-crusted cod (£24), pearly and supple, with new potatoes, capers and sharp salty caper leaf, in an indulgent buttery lemon sauce.
An essential meat dish? It has to be lamb chops (£29.90) — juicily pink, perfectly caramelised, and devoured in seconds, as they always are. But here’s the thing: these weren’t necessarily better than those you get in East London’s many Greek or Turkish restaurants.
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Something to drink? As well as signature cocktails (all £14) — a Zephyr was a sweeter take on negroni with an orange liqueur and rosemary paired with gin and campari — we tried both the Greek white, from Attica, and red, from the Peloponnese (be warned: it’s pricey at £13 a glass).
The verdict? I was keen to see how Hera fared compared to Figo and Eat My Pizza, both reliable enough neighbourhood joints – and the cooking impressed. While the bill can quickly mount up, a quick look at The Fork app reveals you can also enjoy the menu more cheaply, with 30% off Mon-Wed. I’d also return for the weekday two-course lunch at a bargain £13.95 for starter and main, including options like poached salmon, herb-fed grilled baby chicken, and a similar cod dish to the one we ordered, but with mussels, cherry tomatoes and lemon sauce. As is common these days, there are always hacks to get the best value if you look.
The set £13.90 two-course menu runs Mon-Fri 11am-3.30pm. A Happy Hour runs 4-7pm with drinks at £6. A la carte starters from £6.90, mains from £19. 4 Arber Wy, Stratford Cross, London E20 1JS, open 7 days a week 11am-11pm. @herarestaurantlondon
Leytonstoner ate as guests of Hera.
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