What and where? Initially called Uncle Hon’s at Hackney Wick’s canalside venue All My Friends, this project has now been rebranded as Hon’s BBQ, an 80-cover spot at former zero-waste outfit Silo above Crate Brewery. Stepping inside, it’s a pared-back warehouse with wide tables-for-two (you might have to lean in to hear each other speak, as we did on our preview visit last week). There’s counter dining, too: the best spots if you can bag them.
So, who’s behind it? Founder Man Hon Luk fuses Texan-style barbecue with influences inspired by his Hong Kong heritage, while head chef Norine Chu has done time at acclaimed restaurants Singburi 2.0 (reviewed here) and Tempo (reviewed here).
And the food? While the focus is low-and-slow smoked meats, if you’re plant-based don’t be dismayed. I loved the braised tofu, for example, thick melting slices in a delicately savoury “master” stock, and a summery tomato melon salad that, with its subtle heat, shone brightly with sweet acidity. My mostly veggie friend raved about the cauliflower florets with a smoked corn sauce, while we all loved the grilled green beans topped with crispy fried garlic, dried chilies, and spring onions.
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Now, let’s get carnivorous. This is obviously where Hon’s excels — and already a flurry of publications are calling it the best BBQ in the capital. With the meat smoked for twelve hours, the gutsy-yet-nuanced plates didn’t disappoint: phenomenally tender beef ribs with Sichuan peppercorn sauce (a hard recommend), a butter-soft Taiwanese pork belly, ox cheek that dissolved at the press of a fork, and super tasty pork ribs, arguably the most popular dish at our table (so much so that we ordered another).
And don’t forget? Smoked duck pancakes with all the trimmings to start, the slices of pink breast blackened appealingly at the edges.
The one side to order? Lap cheong smoked mac ‘n’ cheese, topped with moreish diced Chinese cured sausage. At £12 this would make a decent lunch alone.
To drink? With the list curated by Brat sommelier Oliver Dibben, prices feel sensible rather than exorbitant for Hackney Wick, with house white and red at £35 a bottle. I enjoyed a sparkling cremant from Jura (£9 a glass; £45 a bottle), an orange wine from Maule in Chile (£9/45), and house rose at £7 a glass.
Thanks to Hon’s BBQ for inviting us to the preview dinner. Starters £9-16, mains from £13 per 100g, sides £4-12. It’s open Wed-Sun from 6pm (12 midday Fri-Sun) on the first floor, Unit 7, The White Building, Queen’s Yard E9 5EN
This is an edited version of an article that first appeared on Substack.
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