It can be a Herculean task trying to book a table at a hot new restaurant, can’t it? Or even a hot “old” restaurant (we’re talking about you, gorgeous Singburi!) Last week, for example, a glance at the Homies On Donkeys reservations suggested there were no free bookings at all on Saturday. Wouldn’t it be nice, I thought misty-eyed, to swing by a neighbourhood fave spontaneously, like we surely did back in the day?
But the Homies juggernaut arriving in E11 was always going to be initially about hype, which, in theory, is brilliant for the area’s increasingly vibrant dining scene. Yes, we loved the former tiny Wood Street market taqueria, but the queues there put us off on more than one occasion. So without doubt, more space was needed for the East London taco dons.
One successful Crowdfunder later, it couldn’t be more different now as the team have just taken over the spacious Leytonstone High Road spot that’s been home to a few restaurants in the last decade, most recently Spice Box (and before that, the popular District).
Yes, there’s the strikingly colourful mural adorning the exterior – in case you’re struggling to locate it – while inside, as you can see from the main pic, it’s a riot of pinks and yellows – and yes, more street art. It’s a vibe.
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So while, unpredictably, it proved impossible to book a table last weekend, we decided in fact to try our luck with an impromptu late Saturday lunch.
And, surprise surprise, success. There were plenty of free tables at 245pm, although we preferred to sit at the window counter and watch the street scene. It was still pretty busy, although it seems slightly odd that the space is divided in two, the bar area on a mid-afternoon completely empty.
The tacos? Fantastic, of course (around £8-9.80 per pair), although it was interesting to note a clear winner – the tender bavette steak with jalapeno relis, onion and coriander, a real flavourbomb. The others packed a punch too, with their “secret” spices and sauces: the carnitas (“reverse braised” confit pork), the signature camaron enchilado (supremely fiery chilli king prawns), and moreish slow-cooked chicken thigh barbacoa with smoky notes and roasted tomato salsa.
Special mention goes to the incredible roasties (pictured above): who’d have thought these buttery, crispy, well-seasoned golden nuggets, with the fluffiest innards, were some of the best we’ve ever tasted?
And if you’re ‘over’ tacos, there are specials and other mains, which we hope to explore next time. Tip : don’t ask for cutlery – the swiftly efficient staff won’t bring it (although they might subtly give you another taco to pick up any debris on the plate, as they did for us). It’s a messy affair, be warned.
In short, with enough neighbourhood, and, naturally, Londonwide support, Homies on Donkeys – unlike its predecessors – is surely here for keeps. After all, top tacos and tasty tatties: what’s not to like? And let’s hope it inspires more buzzy new openings along the same stretch.
The bill for two people was £78.86 for four rounds of tacos, a side of potatoes and a bottle of house wine (£29.50). Follow @homiesondonkeys, 86 High Road Leytonstone, London, E11 3AA
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