What and where? Quite unbelievably, it’s the UK’s only dine-in tube carriage – and one that’s been running an impressive eight years. The train in question is a vintage 1967 Victoria Line carriage in all its glory, with the original TFL moquette seating preserved, an assortment of tables-for-two clad in white tablecloths, and even a sharing table (pictured below) for small groups. Better still, it’s located in the grounds of the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum in that part of E17 that edges towards Leyton.
What’s the vibe? A fully functioning 35-cover restaurant, you enter through the driver’s cab as jazz tinkles away atmospherically (it mutates into jazzy 90s-style house as the evening progresses). Once sat, you can choose your own lighting from four options on the cute tabletop lamp. Genial head chef Beatriz Maldonado Carreno pops up before the meal begins to enthuse about her passion for Latin American cuisine and introduce her seasonally evolving six-course menu.
Is it triggering if you hate the tube? It does take a while to adjust, whether you’re an Underground aficionado or not. To begin with it feels a bit like you’re stuck in a tunnel, especially when it’s dark outside, but your brain will soon reboot and you’ll realise how much you’re enjoying it. Sartorial tip: it’s as hot as the real Victoria Line.
Let’s begin. The meal starts with Gorditas – blue, white and red Mexican style corn cakes – topped with Yucatán style pulled pork, mildly spicy achiote sauce, pickled apple and chilli. A tiny creamy quinoa risotto with miso glazed butternut squash is next, followed by – for me – the meal highlight, a zingy, tastebud-tantalizing ceviche of lime cured cod (pictured above) with spring onion, heritage tomatoes, coriander, tomato and rocoto chilli leche de tigre. This was fantastic.
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The main? A saddle of soft pink lamb comes with half a baked potato, yellow chilli mash, purple potato crisps, sweetheart cabbage, and ocopa, a unique Peruvian sauce made with queso fresco, fruity aji amarillo chillis, milk, and huacatay (black mint) giving it a moreish flavor.
And how were desserts? A pre-dessert of parfait with coconut snow ushered in the finale. This was a combination of the chef’s “favourite things” – chocolate cake, dulce de leche wontons, chocolate and coffee mousse, tangy uchuva berry and pineapple compote – which wasn’t quite the expected flavourbomb, however plates were still left whistlingly clean.
Some booze? The list of mostly South American wines includes a delicious chilled natural Barbera rose, from Uruguay, a bronze-coloured revelation with its touch of fizz, and notes of cherry, rose petal and plum (it also packs a punch at a hefty 14.5 % ABV). A short list of cocktails – including a negroni – is £8.50, while wine starts at £25 a bottle.
Where are the toilets? You’ll need to head outside as the restaurant shares these with the Pumphouse. As the museum is volunteer-led, the loos are very basic: we wondered if these could be elevated with, say, a scented candle and a burnished mirror or two to reflect the yesteryear elegance of the tube-carriage dining room? Just a thought.
The verdict: The experience feels very slick: service is efficient and well-rehearsed, a little like an immersive theatre production, with some dishes recalling classic East London supper clubs of yore. But overall this is an eccentric and “only-in-London” experience that feels way more special than you think it will. “It’s almost dreamlike isn’t it,” said my boyfriend Colin as we stepped out, a little dazed, into the chilly Walthamstow night.
Leytonstoner were hosted by Supperclub.Tube.
